Monday, July 2, 2012

Chinois- How Being Chinese Made Living in Senegal Easier


A lot of people that I encounter here don't believe I'm American. They comment on how i resemble someone of Chinese or Japanese descent and when I inform them that my parents are Chinese, they think I come from a mixed background. I've encountered several individuals here who call America, “the melting pot”, but they don't grasp the true meaning of what they're saying. To many people, Americans need to fit a certain look and if a person doesn't fit that bill, they cannot be American.
I look like wonder woman....how am i not American?
At the same time, coming from a Chinese family has made certain aspects of living in Senegal easier. In this post, I will outline a few things that made my transition easier. I'm not trying to claim that these items are exclusive to my ethnicity (because they aren't), but they're things I've observed and felt.
First of all, eating rice daily is not out of the ordinary for me. When we first arrived in country, other volunteers would complain about the amount of rice they were eating, but I loved it. Growing up, I ate rice almost every single day of my life, so this was not a far jump. The rice wasn't accompanied by several dishes and we all ate out of a communal bowl, but it was familiar. I remember saying to someone that rice was a comfort and that person giving me a bewildered look. One dish, Gosi, a rice porridge, is a polarizing food among volunteers (either they love it or hate it...most people despise it). To many, it has a weird texture and they can't wrap their taste buds around it, but to me, it's Senegalese congee. Congee, a rice porridge that reminds me of sick days or lazy sundays, was something I would make in college that reminded me of home. One time when I was sick in village, my mom made me gosi and I nearly cried. Rice, it does a body good.




My host mom and my grandmother have similar phone styles. They both talk loudly into the phone instead of speaking in a normal tone. It's adorable and my brother thinks it's hilarious that our mom and my grandmother do the same thing (he comments on it every time she's on the phone). In my opinion (and the opinion of many other volunteers), Pulaar is a much gentler sounding language than Woloof. Much like how Madarin sounds more melodic than Cantonese. When you're in a Catonese dominated dim sum restaurant at the peak of lunch hour, the din often sounds slightly angry, but that's the nature of the language- it sounds harsh and because people talk so loudly, it's easy to misconstrue it as anger. Same with Woloof, what could be a normal conversation on a bus in Dakar sounds like a heated argument between two people. I didn't take me long to make that connection and once I did, I just assumed that was how people talked and wasn't worried about fights breaking out in buses.
I eat weird food, but that doesn't make me weird, it makes me Chinese! Just look at our dim sum carts (if you couldn't tell, i'm missing dim sum)... we have chicken feet (yum!), pigs blood cooked with chives (not as weird as it sounds- it's like tofu, with a slight metallic taste), a beef mixture with mysterious parts (may or may not include tongue and stomach), and you can order a clay pot with rice and frog (seriously, it tastes like chicken). I've grown up with these foods and I guess it has made me an adventurous eater. Nothing really fazes me and I'm willing to try anything once. That has definitely been an asset to me here, especially during holidays. On holidays, the families go all out and cook meat (especially Tabaski aka festival of the sheep). They don't waste anything and that scares a lot of volunteers. I don't love the way that they cook the food, but I don't need to run away from it (that is until day three, when there's still leftover meat and no refrigeration). There is also the case of the salted dried fish. I don't mind it and I think it adds flavor to a meal that is mainly flavored by MSG. Most volunteers in country hate it with a passion and I don't blame them; it's weird if you're not used to it. At home, my grandmother used to rehydrate salted dried fish (yes, it was of a better quality) with a dash of oil and a lot of ginger by steaming it in the rice cooker (so delicious). In restaurants, you could order salted fish and chicken fried rice or have it in your congee- definitely something from my childhood. Lastly, we have the world of volunteers. We go out in Dakar, where I can order sea urchin (it's so fresh here) and the black spikes scare some, but it's such a treat. Or we go out in Thies and I can order frog legs and escargot. Some may find it strange, but I love it!


There are other things like the high level of gossip within families, the large extended families, huge family gatherings for events such as weddings, and highly ritualized ceremonies. I can sit here and draw parallels between a lot more events and practices, but I don't want to bore you. Off to cook some congee!
Peace   

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