Confessions of a Hungry PCV

Ramadan has ended, ALHUMDULILLAIH! I can now eat and drink while the sun is out. My attempt to stay in village throughout Ramadan was fairly successful with only one night spent in Kolda. It was an interesting project to undertake and I'm glad that I did it. I had a conversation with my host Dad about it and he said that he really appreciated that I was open to embracing this part of their culture. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

As I mentioned at the beginning of this blog, I am horrible at keeping diaries and journals. My "Peace Corps Journal" had 10 entries in it before Ramadan started. As a Ramadan project, I decided that I would do my best to keep a journal and I did a pretty good job. So, here is a look into my thoughts and my Ramadan Diary, with commentary in parentheses...

Day 1: The beginning of Ramadan and the nerves of returning to village after a month was absolutely terrifying. But, I reached my dad's boutique and had kids yelling my name and my dad came over and gave me a hug (half handshake/ hug combo- Senegalese people don't really hug).... 19:30 roles around and its time to break fast with Tapilapa (village bread, delicious!) and "cafe"- a tea made with mango leave, powdered milk, and sugar. We then had candied dates!

Day 2: I am woken up at 5am by my mom for breakfast. I eat with my dad and uncle (I usually eat with my brother, but he's working in the Gambia and my other brother is in Dakar), but I don't have much of an appetite. My dad says to stop fasting, but I'm determined to try this. I attempt to go back to bed, but I lie there listening to the call to prayer. I get out of bed at 8:30 (much later than usual) and greet my family. I then week my forest of a backyard with help from Binta (my sister-in-law) and Mama (a neighbor).

Day 4: We broke fast in the usual manner, but my mom gave me extra bread- they don't think I'm eating enough. She has also started to call me bobo (baby in Pulaar) which is really sweet.

Day 5: I woke up this morning slightly panicked from a dream, darn Mefloquin (malaria prophylaxis). In my dream, I'm back at the Galen Center and am working for the basketball team again. It's the first game of the season and we're playing Oregon because I see Kai and welcome her back to the Galen Center. I'm apparently the only one working and am rushing to get everything done. I yell at the men's team to vacate the court (typical) and I go to fill water bottles, only to find that they haven't been made yet (aka numbers and names written on them). I go to Sandy (our athletic trainer) to get the water bottles and she's gives me a "I'm disappointed, you know better than this" look. I begin to make the bottles, only to realize I don't know who is on the team and what numbers to use. Then I wake up. Strange (According to a lot of volunteers, it isn't unusual to experience very vivid dreams- still, I'm not used to them).

I literally saw a storm roll into my village. It was so cool to see and hear the rain coming in from the distance.

Day 9: The kids were running around tonight, pumped full of sugar, when Jubiru (my uncle)organized a game that resembled "Steal the Bacon". It was great! Some of the boys came over to chat while we were watching the kids play. They thought it was hilarious when I told them that we played a version of that game in America. It was so nice to chat with them in the evening again. This hasn't happened since I got back from IST. The kids then played a version of Duck Duck Goose. So much fun!

Day 10: I walked Dave to the road this morning (he's a volunteer in Kolda and came to visit my village for 2 days) and then talked to Spence (a volunteer in Tamba)- I love free calling (Peace Corps has made it possible to call other volunteers without having to buy phone credit)! I'm hanging out with some of the kids outside my hut when I get a call from Dave- Kelly got her phone stolen at lummo (a market that occurs once a week) and wanted to know if she could spend the night in my village before heading to Kolda- Of Course!
It was so nice to have Kelly in my village. We had girl talk and updated each other on the last 9 days, even though it felt like it's been much longer. It's so nice to have girl talk; it's the one thing I really miss in village, having a close girlfriend.

Day 11: My brother started to bake bread today in village. I was coming home from a neighbors house when I passed the large brick oven and saw that he was baking bread. I sat there watching them bake bread and it looked so delicious coming out of the oven; too bad we can't eat it fresh.

There was a funeral in my village today. I was really uncomfortable because I don't know how to act. In America, there are certain rituals and mannerisms surrounding a funeral, and unfortunately we weren't taught the Senegalese way in our cross cultural sessions. I don't want to accidentally break a social norm and act inappropriately. Someone here for the funeral called me Toubab-in MY village, NOT OK! I kept walking and pretended not to hear him. The boys told him that it wasn't ok and to not call me Toubab. He then came to greet me and called me volontaire and asked my name, much better.

Day 14: I made a list of places I wanted to eat when I go home. UGH, I miss variety in my food.... I hung out with Adele today, she's currently the closest thing I have to a girlfriend in village (oh, and she's only 15). All the other young, unmarried girls are elsewhere: Swadu is in Dakar, Ustu is in Kolda, and Kadja is in Zig.

Mamadou came back from the Gambia today! It's good to have him back

Day 15: I had cucumbers today and was ecstatic! I miss veggies. I hung out for a bit and watched the full moon move across the sky. Veggies and a full moon, what a great night.

Day 16: Meg (a Kolda volunteer) came today!! It was fun, she chatted with everyone in Pulaar and everyone was saying how much Pulaar she knew. One day, I will be at that level. I'm determined!

Day 20: Today was an adventure. We [Meg and I] went to St. John Cortiba (a new site) and Fascahone (a potential new site). The 20K bike ride on bush trail and car path wasn't so bad despite patches on deep sand and a swamp. It was really cool to see a new site and to talk to a potential village about getting a volunteer. The meeting was in Pulaar and I understood the majority of what was being said-Yay! I didn't have much to contribute, but it was good to see the process of setting up a new site. We had lunch (first day of not fasting) and then it started to rain, so we set off for Meg's site. The bike ride back was so difficult! It rained the whole time and the road was ridiculously muddy. We basically biked through a river for 20K. I have scars and bruises from this ride. I then caught a ride with Peace Corps into Kolda, yay comfy transportation!

Day 22: I woke up sore from the bike ride to Fascahone and the bike ride back to village from Kolda. Boo. Despite just returning from Kolda, I had to fight the desire to go right back to get score updates from the USC- Hawaii game. Good thing people have access to internet and can send me the score tomorrow morning. This is going to be a long football season. I can't believe I can't watch my Trojans.

Day 23: I need to keep my back door closed at night. When I was sweeping my room today, I shooed about 10 frogs from my room-gross. I then finished my Ramadan project book- Atlas Shrugged! Sweet- gotta tell Kate.

There was drama at home today. My brother didn't leave any bread to break fast. I was kinda sad not having bread, but my dad came home from a prayer circle and apologized for the lack of bread. He asked if I wanted him to get bread and we could break fast over again, and obviously I told him no. Then Mamadou (not the bread baking brother) gives me bread with beans that he had gotten and made me vitalait (powdered milk with sugar). My mom then gives me rice from the prayer circle. Then they expected me to eat dinner too! Ugh- so full, too much food.

Day 24: Today I had a headache while hanging out with Adele, so I went home to lay down. On the way home, passing the oven, my brother decides to play the name game and they said something I didn't understand. When I said I didn't understand, they started laughing and didn't explain. I already had a headache and it's difficult enough speaking Pulaar when I'm feeling well that I became really upset and had tears in my eyes. I quickly said that I needed to go and went to my room to cry. I'm trying so hard, don't they get it? I just want someone in village to understand me.

Tonight after dinner, I found a chicken hiding out in my room. So that brings types of animals in the past month to a chicken, frogs, a bat, and the various insects.

Day 26: I am so bored of the rain. I can't believe its raining AGAIN. So, you know how two days ago, I was really upset and felt like no one understood me in village? Well, I think that Tidiane does. Tonight he came over to see how I was doing. We talked about why I was upset and I explained that I wasn't feeling well and that it takes a lot for me to understand and speak Pulaar. He told me that they were just kidding around and then said that if he were in my shoes in a foreign country, he would feel the same way. I don't know if he really gets it, but at least he's trying. Yay friends!

Apparently on the 26th night of Ramadan, they don't sleep and stay up all night for a prayer circle. So, Mamadou baked bread tonight. I attempt to go to bed, but the sound of singing keeps me up. Also, Sarah texted me tonight saying that the weather report for Kolda said it was 80 degrees. At the time, I was wearing pants and a long sleeve shirt because I was cold. I guess my body is adjusted to the temperature.

Day 27: Last night, I was woken up at 3:45am to eat. I guess when they don't sleep they eat when hungry. This time it was rice, follere, and chicken with pasta!!! Would you like some carbs with your carbs? Anyways, this is the first time I've had meat in village!! (I've had fish a couple of times, but never meat)

Day 28: All the females in the village are getting their hair braided in preparation of Korite! I love watching them get their hair braided, it's so much fun to watch. I told Binta that she can braid my hair too because I know she likes to play with my hair and it makes her happy.

I went over to see the newborn baby today! He is so small and light skinned. They said that his body and my body looked alike. I love babies!

Day 29: I dreamt that I was in Costco. Thank goodness Ramadan is almost over!
They saw the moon tonight!! Ramadan has officially ended! Let Korite begin.

Korite: We had breakfast when the sun was out! We had bread and coffee, then an hour later, a second breakfast of Cheeb (rice with oil) and macaroni. Off to pray! I have now prayed with three different religions: Buddhism, Christianity, and now Islam. After prayer time, it was off to greet people in every compound and the children go around asking for change. It reminds me of Chinese New Year. Then we had lunch with beef and off to the soccer pitch! It unfortunately started to pour, so we all went home. Korite is so much fun!

Village wide prayer time

Ramadan Stats:
Days:29
Days I fasted: 27
Nights in the regional house: 1
Books read: 3
Loaves of Tapilapa eaten: 13
Visitors: 3
Days it rained:22
Money spent: 4 mille (8 dollars)
Mefloquin Dreams: 14
Braids in my hair:12

That's it for Ramadan!

--Peace Out!

p.s. I've been in country for 6 months! Time flies...

Am I still in Africa?

Last time I left off with leaving my village for an extended amount of time. Well, I am headed back to village tomorrow, just in time for the start of Ramadan. I am attempting to stay in village for the entirety of Ramadan and not come to Kolda until the new stage's demyst (I'm going to be a sophomore!). So, here are my adventures after leaving village...

**Note: I'm really in Africa, I wasn't able to post this a month ago due to unreliable internet

**Note #2: HAPPY BIRTHDAY VIVI! I hope you have a splendid 27th B-day (haha!) Miss you big sis.

Kelly's Birthday
I came into Kolda the morning of the 14th to celebrate Kelly's 23rd birthday! How do you celebrate a birthday Africa style? Chinese food and Jello Shots....Obvi! I made fried rice and chicken spring rolls with what we could find in the Kolda market. It worked our surprisingly well and turned out fantastic! Amanda made two delicious peanut sauces (one sweet, one spicy) from scratch and it turned out really well, considering that we didn't have hoisin sauce.

It turned out to be only 5 of us in the house that night, so we ate until we were all stuffed. We were in mini food comas for the rest of the night. It was great to celebrate a birthday and have a mini girls night rolled into one.

Road to IST
After our Chinese food binge, Kelly and I headed out to Jenae's village for the night. It was so nice to see her and to see her village. It's funny how much things vary from village to village. Jenae's village is super patron compared to mine- they were watching TV when we arrived. As a pre- dinner snack, we made popcorn with Cinnamon and sugar- yum! Then we had a potato and fish dish with bread for dipping. Delicious! Then we had couscous with milk- It was strange, but good. Jenae told us about how her family has a bunch of cows and how she has milk every day (jealous!), while I'm convinced that I'm calcium deficient.

The next morning, it was off to Sarah's site, near Mbour. Six of us crammed into a sept place (actually, it was quite comfortable, since it usually seats 7), and off we went. We passed through Tamba and Kaolack and I was reminded how lucky I am to be in Kolda. Kolda is small and clean compared to the other regional capitals and everything is within walking distance. We arrived at Sarah's site around 5pm and proceeded to not be able to greet anyone. Sarah lives in a Serre village and all the Kolda residents speak Fulakunda. Getting to Sarah's awesomely painted hut, we found a trio of Tambaites lounging around- mini stage reunion! That night we had yassa poulet prepped by Sarah's family and followed it up with baked potatoes and banana boats around a camp fire. Seriously, am I still in Africa?

We woke up for beach weekend (at this point, I'm not sure if it was actually the weekend, but who cares...)!!! The 11 of us Toubabs went to Mbour, to campement Ndalli. Ndalli is owned by the counterpart of a eco-tourism volunteer and a campement that we frequented during PST. This was the first time we saw the huts and they were amazing! There was hot water in the shower- HOT WATER. I haven't taken a hot water shower since DC. The simple pleasures in life. It was a glorious two days of lounging at the beach, good food (pizza!), and great company.

IST
IST was a flurry of information ranging from permaculture to chicken raising to grant writing. Originally, everyone was staying with their PST host families except for the the two furthest sites, Mbour included. So, we were assigned new host families within Thies. It was strange having a new host family, with yet another new name (I'm at 5). My host family spoke no Pulaar and I had to communicate via French. It was very difficult for me (although, I remember more french than I gave myself credit for), and I wasn't the only one. We asked our Country Director if we could stay at the center for the duration of IST, and he agreed! It was nice to be able to stay at the center and I was able to explore Thies.

There was one night where it poured and the streets of Thies literally became rivers (I'm NOT exaggerating). Oh adventures of Senegal... I returned to the center and bathed in Hibiclense, convinced that if I didn't, I would get creeping eruption (google it). Speaking of diseases, the leprolis came back =(. The dermatologist said that it is microbial eczema and to prevent it, I should wear pants, long sleeve shirts, and shoes (HA! not going to happen). Anyways, it's gone now and hopefully it never comes back.

English Camp
After IST, we had English camps! The US Embassy sponsors a number of English camps in Dakar, Thies, and Fattick. I was assigned Thies and it was a blast! Mika and I had a group of 15 kids that are in the equivalent of 8th grade. Basically we played icebreakers all week and had Olympics. It was summer camp where the goal is to practice English. The most difficult part was getting the kids to not speak Wolof. They understood most of what we said, but they refused to speak. Frustrating! Other than that, we danced and sang, and had a good time.

Dakar
"Dakar is a magical land." - Meera. This is not an exaggeration when you've been living in village for two months. Friday night, we went to the American club for Trivia night! My team won the tequila round and continued to win that night (yay!). This means we get the honor of hosting next month. The next day, the girls went to breakfast in preparation of shopping day! I had a cappuccino and was reminded how much I miss real coffee (sigh). Shopping in Dakar was highly amusing. I bought Gucci Flora perfume from a street vendor for $3 USD (probably fake, but it smells like the real thing). The best part is bargaining with people. It's expected and fun to see what outrageous price they throw at you. At every vendor, I asked them if they spoke Pulaar. Dakar sees so many tourists that people really responded when you spoke to them in one of the local languages. Even if the vendor himself didn't speak Pulaar, he would summon one of his friends to talk to us. Thanks to this tactic, I was able to successfully talk down the price of a belt from 6 mille to 1 mille (victory!).

We then continued on to the Fukigai, an open air thrift market. If you are patient and willing to shift through mountains of clothes, you can find some real treasures. I found a French Connection Dress in my size, which I purchased for $2 USD (among other items). I love this city! That night, after a delicious dinner of pesto gnocchi and veggies, we (as in half of PC Senegal) went to Kreul Graoul, a dance party that occurs once a month. I miss going dancing and this was a perfect remedy.

The next day we lounged by the pool followed by dinner at a chinese restaurant! I miss Chinese food, and they had some of my favorites. It was hilarious- the owners were Chinese and spoke mainly Mandarin, so my friend Maddy and I ordered for the group. We forgot so much of our Chinese. We stumbled through and had difficulty remembering words for certain foods. It all worked out in the end and we went home happy.

I had my follow up dermatologist appointment (which is why I was in Dakar) and then I had to say goodbye to my site mate who is returning to America. It was sad, but I'm excited for her!

Phew...I really am in Africa, even though it didn't feel like it these past three weeks. I'm definitely ready to get back to village though, I miss them lots!

--Peace Out

P.S. Ramadan post coming soon